Situation is as follows: I have a Chaintech motherboard, the closest model I could find anything about is CT-6OJV. I would like to use it as a base for a low-specced Pentium III rig (just assembling something from the spares I have accumulated over the years). However, the motherboard produces no video output, neither from the integrated GPU nor any PCI or AGP GPU I connect. The CPU, RAM and monitor are known good. The whole system lies open on non-conductive a table, so there could be no shorts between the solder points on the back. Does anyone have advice to share, or at least a manual or some other documentation from this motherboard? [edited to eliminate a typo in the model number]
I've been pondering the idea of ordering one on eBay. Given that the choice is rather broad, can you recommend a particular one, or should I just grab whatever fits my budget? (under 10 euros, preferrably) Just a quick idea I had while writing this reply: what about attempting to boot some sort of preinstalled OS (think any liveCD linux or WinPE distro) and attempting to establish a local network connection, and perchance that'd be successful, attempt further diagnostics via some remote control protocol (SSH? I have virtually no knowledge on this topic). Could that be done, with what software, and would it it actually be useful in this situation?
Has many years I do not work with this equipment, I do not remember brands to recommend. However, it is very likely that you will replace some components such as capacitors and ICs after the result of the POST card. I may be mistaken. But I believe you're stuck in the POST. And so it is not possible to boot on any system. For a POST to be successful, it can vary from system to system, but basically you need good: Power supply, processor, memory, video card, cr2032 battery, in some cases even a working keyboard, and a consistent configuration of jumpers and dipswitchs, according to the manual and in accordance with the parts you have. In addition the memory and processor must first be compatible with the BIOS version that you have installed on your system. cheers
Given that the choice is rather broad, can you recommend a particular one, or should I just grab whatever fits my budget? (under 10 euros, preferrably)
I would if I knew the front panel connector pinout. Sadly, I have yet to find a manual or any other documentation that would provide me with this information. I could, of course, use the brute-force approach (plugging the speaker in in every way it fits), however, I am slightly concerned that it might cause damage to the hardware. How large is the chance that it actually could happen?
@ATOS: Can you post a picture of the Motherboard? Perhaps someone here can help you identify the speaker connections.
Pictures of the whole motherboard, the model number sticker and the front panel connector are attached to this post. Couldn't post them as images due to my low post count.
Well for old mb that can be anything its hard to say what should be wrong.. Well at first check all the jumper's at the md for that you need a manual i cant post a links in here just yet i pm you a link if i found something.. Second you should do check all the pins connectors i see in the photos some of them ar damaged.. Check if the psu is working correctly check voltages of the psu's rails. It also can be a bad caps. You should test them.
@Michaela Joy The CR2302 was inserted when I began testing, I removed it later in an attempt to clear CMOS. According to my multimeter, it still holds a charge, and was able to light up a LED. Very nice of you to remind though. Slightly offtopic, never before have I encountered a board that wouldn't work without a CMOS battery - usually they all just fall back to default settings. How common is the nonfunctional-without-battery variety? @Joe C I'm sorry for the rather lacking quality of pictures, but it was the best I could do ATM. The caps aren't nearly as bulged as they look in the picture, and no leakage is visible. @ofernandofilo You're right, I made a typo in the original post. To clarify, I was searching for CT-6OJV the whole time, yet was unable to find this manual. Thank you very much, I'll report when I have any results.
Any bulging on the cap at all means that it has failed, By quality, I ment the bright light reflection on all the other caps in that same area... can't see the tops due to that bright light reflection. Replace the caps that do show any bulging or find another old board with good caps (not very likely though)
@ATOS: On most motherboards these days, you will hear a beep and it will stop and say "CMOS is reset to defaults. Press <F1> to continue" (Or something like that). If you have no speaker or screen, it will appear to have stopped. The missing battery would have hid that from you. Joe C is right though. Even though the photo quality is poor, you can see the bulge on that capacitor. You need to be gentle when you try to remove it, or you may break any feedthrough plating on the motherboard, rendering it useless. Feedthrough plating is used on multi-layer motherboards to complete the circuit on the internal layers. Older boards may have as few as 4 layers. Some have as many as 8 layers.
I connected an 8 ohm, 0.25 watt speaker according to the pinout from manual, and got no output. Just to make sure, I tested with another CPU, different RAM modules and a fresh CMOS battery. No change. Requiescat in pace, CT-6OJV. You will be missed make a nice wall decoration . Grievance aside, I will give the POST card a try when it arrives (shipping from China/Hong Kong can take awfully long time) and will maybe even attempt to either get the dead caps replaced, or do it myself. That's a bit of a future plan though, as I have another board with a higher priority in the recapping line - an MSI 815EPT Pro, which is a higher-end product, has better CPU support and some interesting gimmicks onboard. Thanks to everyone who helped.